Lake Titicaca - Puno

Trouble was brewing overnight in Jenni’s gums – long story, but a restless night and regular analgesics did not bode well….

Notwithstanding that, we set off after breakfast to meet Marco, who seemed very pleased to see us, as we were him.  We were lucky to have another gorgeous morning, and set off, puttering through the reeds on a really tranquil morning, some amazing reflections in the water en route.

 

We really had little idea what to expect – we knew people had been living on these reed islands for hundreds of years and that the tourist invasion had rather taken over the typical way of life for the villagers.  We weren’t expecting the sheer size of the place – each island holds family groups of  around 4 or 5 families and there seemed to be hundreds of them - there are kindergartens and primary schools, a clinic, and with the advent of tourism, a few small bars/cafes.

We didn’t realize Marco was taking us to his own island, where it transpires he, his wife and ma-in-law are responsible for generating the tourist income, whilst the other members of the family are in charge of hunting duck, fishing and the constant maintenance needed to keep the fragile islands and homes in good repair.  His island is called Big Fish Island and it proved absolutely charming.

 

 

Marco introduced us to his wife, Sandra,  sat us down on reed rolls and proceeded to give us an excellent demonstration on the construction of a typical island, from the reed root base blocks, anchored to the lake bottom 20 meters below by large stones, the reed covering and the various huts, kitchens etc. He interspersed it with history and anecdotes, all so interesting – he has a lovely sense of  humour too.

 

 

He then took us inside his main house – very sweet smelling from the reed walls, roof and floor! A modern introduction is a layer of plastic in the roof reeds – sounded sensible to me! They also have a small solar panel for electricity, though cooking is still done the old-fashioned way on stones, veeery

carefully; dry reeds being very combustible!

 

Of course, we were expected to buy a few bits from their stall, which we did gladly and happily, though we are not quite sure where the two emproidered panels will fit in our house!  But they will be a very nice reminder of a most interesting and unusual day!

 

At some point historically, Catholicism – and the 7^th Day Adventists – came to the islands and Marco’s family have their own small chapel with hens running in and out and some cats and kittens to keep the reed-mice under control!

 

The Big Fish has a ladder to go up into the tower – originally this was for communication with the neighbours, now it gives a good view out over the surrounding islands

The niece below joined in the family economy by selling us a lovely drawing of some flamingos for about 50p, then Sandra surprised me by giving me an extra necklet as a gift – a really sweet, happy family.  We felt so privileged to have been given such an intimate insight into their way of life – the passing boats of 20+ passengers to other more touristified islands seemed so intrusive by comparison.

Then Marco took us around the other islands, showing us his school, which thanks to former prime minister Fujimori in 1990  boasts a wireless mast and 3 computers. Then gently back through the reeds, where he showed us how to eat the reed “banana”, advising us only to have a small taste, rubbing his belly – ie could give us the runs! And we finally got a decent shot of a cute  duck called a pata; the male has an amazing blue beak.


 

A really super experience all round.