Started fair, but with rain threatening at
any time! There was a distinct air of excitement aboard as we cruised through the beautiful
islands either side of the channel down south.
Then – Cape
Horn ahoy!
Jenni prepares for the worst!
Once we reached the island, we had our
first ride in the Zodiac rubber rib boats that they use to transport us to and
fro – superb organization, the line moved really quickly as they had 6
boats holding 14 people each. It’s a bit
nerve wracking, but safe enough if the seas are kind, and they were this day!
We were lucky to have a mostly dry day with an occasional glimmer of sun.
There is a lighthouse areas there manned by
the Chilean navy who send a family, usually with child and dog, to stay there
for a year, and apparently it is a much sought-after posting! Rather them than
me, though it looked benign enough that day.
The tundra and stunted wind-blown bushes give you a clue that it is
indeed, a windy spot!! It’s a Unesco protected site because of the diversity of
its biosphere, with all manner of unusual flora, fungi, lichens etc.
Luckily, we are allowed to visit some
specific areas, including the Albatross Memorial for all the ships and crew that have
gone down in the area – and there are a LOT of
them. From there, you see the actual
southern most point of land – exposed and too far to walk to, even if allowed.
Then the lighthouse itself, complete with
small shop, run by the resident family, with proceeds going to charity. So we
have the t-shirt and mug – a certificate from our captain!!! Also a sweet
little chapel.
Two quick asides - firstly, we learnt that the comparatively
small sailing boat below had just got back from Antarctica
and the crew were enjoying some R&R on the island before heading back to
Ushuaia. Madness.
And then one of the most awesome sights of
the whole trip, the amazing acrobatic albatrosses, which we watched for
hours. Despite countless attempts, this
is the best photo –
Back to the ship for lunch, then sailed
back in sunshine (mostly) through beautiful scenery
to
our next shore visit, Wulaia
Bay on Isla Navarro, a
place of great historical interest – (google it) – with a nice hike up to a
viewpoint. Firstly, back into the Zodiacs
Then the hike – really lovely flora – can’t
put all the pix in so here are a few – a tree full of mistletoe-like parasites,
an interesting edible fungus that grows on the trees, who try to reject them by
crating these boles, and a giant daisy with “dog-faced” orchids behind:
And a great vista at the top:
It
also has a fascinating museum situated in an old Chilean Navy radio station,
now being put together by the Australis people to record the heritage of the
original indigenous people, all but one of whom are now extinct. It also tells the maritime history of the
area.
That last photo above is the shortest and
longest roundings of Cape Horn under sail –
one in1938 took 5.5 days, but one in 1905 had taken 94 days – 3 months! – as
the winds kept sending them hither and thither!!
The museum also included a lovely sketch of
the local dolphins - some of whom were kind enough to escort us out to the horn
this morning:
Then whiskey or hot chocolate on the
shoreline, and the fast trip back “home”.
After a sumptuous dinner, we chose to watch
a documentary on Chile
rather than join the bingo folks, and we really enjoyed it – great info and
pix. Then bed – knackered! At this point, the weather closed in, which
is just as well, as we were passing the Darwin range with some glacial scenery,
but it was so dark and foggy, I could go to sleep as it was all invisible!!
