Cape Horn

Started fair, but with rain threatening at any time! There was a distinct air of excitement  aboard as we cruised through the beautiful islands either side of the channel down south.

 





 

Then – Cape Horn ahoy!

Jenni prepares for the worst!

 

 

Once we reached the island, we had our first ride in the Zodiac rubber rib boats that they use to transport us to and fro – superb organization, the line moved really quickly as they had 6 boats  holding 14 people each. It’s a bit nerve wracking, but safe enough if the seas are kind, and they were this day! We were lucky to have a mostly dry day with an occasional glimmer of sun.

 


There is a lighthouse areas there manned by the Chilean navy who send a family, usually with child and dog, to stay there for a year, and apparently it is a much sought-after posting! Rather them than me, though it looked benign enough that day.  The tundra and stunted wind-blown bushes give you a clue that it is indeed, a windy spot!! It’s a Unesco protected site because of the diversity of its biosphere, with all manner of unusual flora, fungi, lichens etc.

 


Luckily, we are allowed to visit some specific areas, including the Albatross Memorial for all the ships and crew that have gone down in the area – and there are a LOT of them.  From there, you see the actual southern most point of land – exposed and too far to walk to, even if allowed.

Then the lighthouse itself, complete with small shop, run by the resident family, with proceeds going to charity. So we have the t-shirt and mug – a certificate from our captain!!! Also a sweet little chapel.

 

Two quick asides  - firstly, we learnt that the comparatively small sailing boat below had just got back from Antarctica and the crew were enjoying some R&R on the island before heading back to Ushuaia. Madness.

 

 

And then one of the most awesome sights of the whole trip, the amazing acrobatic albatrosses, which we watched for hours.  Despite countless attempts, this is the best photo –

 

 

Back to the ship for lunch, then sailed back in sunshine (mostly) through beautiful scenery

to our next shore visit, Wulaia Bay on Isla Navarro, a place of great historical interest – (google it) – with a nice hike up to a viewpoint.  Firstly, back into the Zodiacs

Then the hike – really lovely flora – can’t put all the pix in so here are a few – a tree full of mistletoe-like parasites, an interesting edible fungus that grows on the trees, who try to reject them by crating these boles, and a giant daisy with “dog-faced” orchids behind:

 


And a great vista at the top:

 

It also has a fascinating museum situated in an old Chilean Navy radio station, now being put together by the Australis people to record the heritage of the original indigenous people,  all but  one of whom are now extinct.  It also tells the maritime history of the area. 

That last photo above is the shortest and longest roundings of Cape Horn under sail – one in1938 took 5.5 days, but one in 1905 had taken 94 days – 3 months! – as the winds kept sending them hither and thither!!

The museum also included a lovely sketch of the local dolphins - some of whom were kind enough to escort us out to the horn this morning:

 

Then whiskey or hot chocolate on the shoreline, and the fast trip back “home”. 

 

After a sumptuous dinner, we chose to watch a documentary on Chile rather than join the bingo folks, and we really enjoyed it – great info and pix.  Then bed – knackered!  At this point, the weather closed in, which is just as well, as we were passing the Darwin range with some glacial scenery, but it was so dark and foggy, I could go to sleep as it was all invisible!!