Farewell Chile
(for now)- Hello Argentina
The journey to Ushuaia started with a four hour van ride
across the border to El Calafate, 300k away.
It was a very good road, through splendiferous scenery, starting gently
rural and finishing in the arid desert that surrounds El Calafate (see
previous SA blog for more detail). En
route we saw lots more guanacos and
rhea, and several caracara, an angry-looking bird of prey, mostly tearing
voraciously at roadkill. However, one
pair posed nicely for the photo-shoot!
The flight from El
Cal to Ushuaia was just an hour,
but it was turning towards evening as we arrived in pleasant sunshine. We
already knew which restaurant we wanted to hit – a quick bottle of wonderful
Patagonian wine, Newen, in the pub nearby first, then we rolled into the
parilla with an enormous indoor BBQ/asado area including lambs on racks,
gaucho-style. Absolutely the best lamb in the world. Mick washed it down with a local Beagle beer;
I could see no reason not to have another glass of the Newen Sav Blanc…..
Next day was rainy and bitterly cold; oh yes, must mention
our first “mishap” - waking that morning freezing to death, the boiler for the
hot water and heating having blown out for the second time. Much stamping of
feet, and we were offered a choice between a tiny room with no outlook, or
staying in our nicer suite and trusting the boiler-repair man would sort it
whilst we were out. Chose the latter and it worked out fine, been toasty ever
since!! The rain, which was falling on
snow on the mountain tops, eased a bit towards lunch time, so we went for a
coffee and perused the lovely map we bought of our upcoming passage through the
Beagle Channel and the Magellan Straights – not forgetting Cape
Horn! We then repeated a
long shoreline walk to the west of town that we had enjoyed last time. It’s
still as good, and the 3 ibis and 2 caracaras in the woody part coming back
finished it off nicely.
We were a bit thirsty so popped into a local store for some
water, which turned out to be an absolute little treasure trove – cheese,
wines, sweeties, yummy stuff. And then
for dinner? No reason not to go back to the best restaurant in town…. This time
for a fine slab of beef and a leg of chicken , oh, and a bit more lamb, please?
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